Scattered throughout the mountainous interior of western and central Honduras, the cloud forests rise well above the drier forests of pine and oak and the populated valleys below. As their name implies, these forests are often covered in clouds, their high peaks enshrouded for days at a time. Wet, cool, primeval, they are forests of singular enchantment, a wonder known only to those willing to climb to their heights.
These high mountains literally scrape the clouds. As wind-born mist passes through the high forest it precipitates on the dense tangle of leaves and branches, and even if it is not raining above the canopy, a steady drip soaks the forest floor. Because of the constant cloud drip, known as "horizontal precipitation", the cloud forest has been called the "weeping woods". The water filters through the soil and flows clear from springs and creeks, over elegant falls and down into larger rivers that eventually provide clean water to the surrounding communities.
The abundance of moisture gives these high, misty forests a lavishness exceeding that of even the lowland tropical forests of La Mosquitia. Every branch and trunk is covered with a carpet of epiphytes - plants like mosses, bromeliads and orchids that, lacking roots in the ground, cling to the surfaces of other plants for support. These floating gardens of epiphytes give the cloud forest a feeling of lushness.
The cloud forest is a pristine place, dense and cool and still. At first it seems that there are few animals to break the silence, but the observant will be rewarded by glimpses of the furtive creatures that live there. The resplendent quetzal, legendary winged serpent of the Maya world, with its crimson breast and yard-long iridescent tail, flies through the light-dappled shade like a blue-green flame. He shares the forest with the toucan and the emerald toucanet, trogons and woodpeckers, the clamorous curassows and crested guans, and scores of other species. And there is the unseen jilguero, a shy little songbird with a high, clear, fluted voice that seems impossibly beautiful penetrating the quiet that embraces the forest floor. The jilguero's pure melody and the quetzal's perfect design do as much to define the serenity of the cloud forest as the mysterious silence of windblown mist through the mossy branches near the tops of the highest mountains.
There are many mammals native to the cloud forests, as well, although in some areas the pressures of human activity have pushed them out or made them extremely wary. It is often quite rare to find many of them, though their tracks are easily encountered. Many are nocturnal by nature, and others have learned to hide out during the day to avoid being hunted. Three species of monkeys - the Spider Monkey, the Capuchin (white-faced) Monkey, and Howler Monkey - range into the cloud forests. The hoarse roar of the latter can be heard at great distance at the beginning and end of the day. The coati, a long-snouted cousin of the raccoon, is an omnivore that can be found foraging on the ground or in the trees, alone or in large groups.
There are many cloud forest protected areas in Honduras that are accessible to those who would like to spend an afternoon or a week contemplating their beauty:
La Tigra National Park - Near Tegucigalpa, La Tigra National Park is a cool retreat just a 40-minute drive from the capital. Honduras' first national park, La Tigra was once the sight of the El Rosario mines that operated at the beginning of the century. The mines and scattered remnants of ancient machinery are an added attraction to this second growth cloud forest. Resplendent Quetzals are sighted in the park, as well as many other species of birds.
There are two entrances to La Tigra National Park accessible by vehicle, each less than an hour's drive from Tegucigalpa. The Jutiapa side is reached by driving from the capital up through the community of El Hatillo and on past the village of Jutiapa and into the park. There are many trails on this side that wind their way through the cloud forest up to the top of the ridge, along which are strewn a series of radio antennas. There is also a dirt road straight to the top that you can quickly walk up or down, but only maintenance vehicles are allowed to drive on the road.
On the other side of the park is the El Rosario entrance. El Rosario is the name of the abandoned mining town perched high up on the hillside just below the park's nuclear zone. This entrance is reached by driving up from Tegucigalpa past Valle de Angeles, turning left at the turn-off for the town of San Juancito. A charming town at the base of the mountain, San Juancito boomed during the mining years, and has retained much of its mining town architecture. Unfortunately, a significant portion of the town was destroyed by a landslide during Hurricane Mitch in November of 1998. The El Rosario Mining Company commenced operations in the early 1900's, and the little mining town contained Honduras' first American embassy. Some of the charming old houses are abandoned, but some are used by the park administration for a visitor's center and a hostel-like accommodation for hikers to spend the night. The rooms have between 2 to 5 single beds each, a couple with private baths and the others share a bathroom and shower. (Tours to La Tigra National Park available on request only)
La Muralla National Park - On an overnight trip from Tegucigalpa or La Ceiba, La Muralla National Park, near La Union, Olancho, is your best bet for seeing the Resplendent Quetzal. They abound in this park, as you will realize if someone identifies their calls for you. The town of La Union in the department of Olancho is reached by a three-hour drive from either Tegucigalpa or La Ceiba, and the park is another half-hour up a winding but well maintained dirt road. There is a visitor's center in the park, where a number of trails through the surrounding cloud forest begin and end. The most frequented is the 3.7-kilometer El Pizote loop trail. There is a developed campsite about a 15-minute hike up a trail from the visitor's center. There is another more remote campsite at the edge of a quiet stream another 20-minute hike along the Monte Escondido trail, which takes off from the El Pizote trail near the first campsite. (Tours to La Muralla National Park available on request only)
Sierra de Agalta National Park - Also in the department of Olancho, Sierra de Agalta National Park, near Gualaco, offers a fascinating if strenuous 5 or 6 day tour of the changing ecosystems encountered as you climb up the La Picucha trail to the summit. Sierra de Agalta is probably the best place to encounter the furtive cloud forest mammals. Further north, in the same mountain range and soon to be included in Sierra de Agalta National Park, is the 200 ft. Ojo de Agua waterfall reached by a 4-hour hike from the rustic Pech village of El Carbon, about an hour's drive north of San Esteban. There is a good camping site about 40-minutes below the falls at the edge of a large pool formed by the river. (Tours to Sierra de Agalta National Park available on request only)
Santa Barbara National Park - Near Lake Yojoa, Santa Barbara National Park can be accessed from the charming, high village of San Jose de los Andes above the municipality of Las Vegas. This rugged mountain can be climbed and even traversed, but only with the help of an experienced guide who knows the trail. Another interesting village from which to begin a trek into the park is the quaint, cool coffee and vegetable-growing village of San Luis Planes on the park's North Slope.(Tours to Santa Barbara National Park available on request only).
Cerro Azul Meambar National Park - Across Lake Yojoa from Santa Barbara National Park is another cloud forest protected area called CerroAzulMeambarNational Park. The park has an environmental education center in the village of El Pino, near Santa Elena. The park's best backpacking begins in the small village of Las Delicias and follows a trail up into the watershed of the beautiful Rio Canchia. The trail has yet to be punched through to the west side of the park, but there are long term plans to do so. (Find a tour to Cerro Azul Meambar National Park)
Celaque National Park - Located near Gracias, Lempira, this cloud forest park contains the country's highest mountain at nearly 9,200 ft., and there is a steep trail to the top for hearty backpackers. The top of Celaque is a wide, flat plateau, uncommon among the steep-sloped cloud forest parks. (Find a tour to Celaque National Park)
Cusuco National Park - This is the closest cloud forest to San Pedro Sula, about a 2-hour drive passing through the town of Cofradia and winding up into the mountains. A good place to see quetzals, you have to walk a ways into the park to reach primary forest. There is a lovely waterfall that your guide can show you.
